Canoes and Cold Hands
Our green Coleman canoe gets some strange looks at the Gallatin River put in. There’s snow in the forecast for the afternoon but for now the sun is out, warming up my waders that hang from the review mirror. We pull the canoe off a cutbank into the small eddy and I eye the sharp fence between upstream and downstream water.
“If we tip over here, we just swim back to the car, right?” I say. I’m half joking. The water is winter cold and I really, really don’t want to go for a wader swim.
Two men attaching a spare oar to a shiny RO boat look at us with concern. We stack a six pack of beer into the middle of the boat, then charge the nose of the canoe through the fence of current. One wobbly eddy turn later, we’re moving downstream.
When I guide, I call any double paddled craft “a divorce boat.” Both my boyfriend and I would rather be unloading a handcrafted drift boat off a custom welded trailer into this river. But we’re both a little broke, a little cocky and a little wild-eyed in love with floating on water. We use the resources that come cheap and easy to spend time out here. This canoe has been sitting in my backyard abandoned and covered in weeds all autumn.
“Might as well see if it floats,” Casey said this morning, pushing it over with his toe.
We paddle downstream, edging the canoe off shallow bars of gravel and giving strainers of piled driftwood a wide berth. We ram the canoe’s nose (sorry canoe) onto an island and Casey swings a streamer deep into the run and back towards us.
Back in the canoe, we yell at each other a few times because this is what you do in a duo-paddled bucket that doesn’t turn because it is designed for lakes. My hands are numb but I dig in J-strokes as Casey casts another streamer into a frothy eddy. I hear a yelp and watch him land a thick Rainbow Trout, scales just a shade darker than the snowflakes that have started to fall. I smile as I turn the canoe back into the current, because now he owes me one.
As the snow begins to dump in earnest, I decide to save my “hold the boat here” card for later. We paddle hard for the take out, making jokes about taking maidens and furs downstream. We bask in sarcastic mountain man fantasies and Trout high. At the car, we huddle around the heater, thawing our hands and wishing the canoe would put itself back on the roof.
We’ll have a nice drift boat and trailer someday. Maybe I’ll buy a pair of waders that aren’t hand-me-downs from a fisheries tech friend. Maybe in the future Casey’s fly rod won’t be the most expensive thing he owns, vehicle included. We both love spending time on rivers more than fancy appliances or Paris vacations, so I know where our first bit of expendable income will go.
For right now, however, there’s something scrappy and delicious about these backyard canoes, begged and borrowed rafts, numb hands and lunches of dark beer. I know that in ten years, Casey will feather the oars on our RO boat while I catch a Rainbow Trout in that frothy eddy (he owes me one, after all).
“Remember that time we canoed this stretch in December?” he’ll ask.
“If you’re gonna be stupid, you gotta be tough,” I’ll quote off a beer can.
Then we’ll laugh and hope the river and it’s Trout remember that we came and loved them even before it was easy or warm to do so.
